posted
Long story short, I couldn't get the dizzy out when I installed my new intake manifold so I tried to carefully slip it under the dizzy without messing up the end seals. Well, on the first fully up to temp hill climbing road trip yesterday, the rear end seal has developed a vacuum leak. I'm going to have to take it off again and get it sealed right which means getting that distributor out of the block. I gave it as mighty a pull as I could the first time around, (yes the hold down bolt and clamp were off), but it still wouldn't come out. I'm afraid I'm going to have to beat on it a bit to get it out and I don't want to hurt anything. Although, I am considering putting in a DUI HEI distributor in it's place. Either way, I need to get it out of the block without damaging anything. I'd appreciate any advice you guys have for me!
Thanks,
Screamin'
-------------------- 'Screamin' Red Ass' B-17G lost on Berlin raid, 1944. Now the namesake for my 78 Bronco, which has already taken a fair share of flak, but keeps on flying. http://www.supermotors.org/users/BigDonkey
From: Ellensburg, WA., USA | Registered: Dec 2003
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posted
By the way, I did search the topic. Since my dizzy turns fine for timing changes, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something other than the obvious PBBlaster soaking and leverage tricks. I just don't understand why it won't come out if it can turn alright.
Screamin'
-------------------- 'Screamin' Red Ass' B-17G lost on Berlin raid, 1944. Now the namesake for my 78 Bronco, which has already taken a fair share of flak, but keeps on flying. http://www.supermotors.org/users/BigDonkey
From: Ellensburg, WA., USA | Registered: Dec 2003
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posted
When I tore my engine down the first time I had to hti it with a hammer pretty hard to get it to break loose. DOn't get the procomp HEI from jbg. I put that on a brand new engine and it double fired a cylinder and didn't fire another one. Long story but I ended up blowing a cylynder head gasket and haveing to do a valve job and get a new gasket. I don't recomend hitting the dizzy hard, but I wasn't planning on reusing it. It is now back on the engine and I wailed on it. good luck.
-------------------- 79 f250 4x4 400 4 speed manual flatbed 33x12.5 bfg AT's add a leafs front and rear tuff stuff 12500 winch
From: Cedar Rapids, Iowa | Registered: Dec 2008
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posted
Hey jmbennin, I've heard about the ProComp HEI's being junk. Sorry to hear what happened to you. The price tag on the ProComp is enticing, but after the research I've done, I'm going with a Davis Unified. Not cheap, but a lot less expensive than repairing a messed up engine.
Man jayc, I hope it doesn't come to that! I'll be putting all the leverage to it that I can get this weekend.
Screamin'
-------------------- 'Screamin' Red Ass' B-17G lost on Berlin raid, 1944. Now the namesake for my 78 Bronco, which has already taken a fair share of flak, but keeps on flying. http://www.supermotors.org/users/BigDonkey
From: Ellensburg, WA., USA | Registered: Dec 2003
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posted
I think what you are running into are deposits on the shaft of the dizzy below the hole in the block where it sits. This allows it to spin, but won't pull out of the hole inless a pretty reasonable amount of force is applied to the thing. I've had some luck getting them out when the engine (and deposits) is hot. I'm assuming the deposits are a little softer. I've had luck by GENTLY prying from opposites sides with large pry bars. Takes a friend and some coordination to get this to work. Constant pressure is way better than beating on it.
-------------------- Thomas A. Rammer
From: Fairfield, OH (Cincinnati) | Registered: Jun 2001
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posted
Yep, the deposits are caused from galvanic corrosion, due to the dissimiliar metals of the distributor and block (aluminum and iron). Add to this the electrical current going through the distributor to ground, and corrosion results.
Screamin', you've heard all the tricks already, except maybe this one because it's fairly new: There's a product called 'Freeze Out', that when sprayed on a part supercools it amd makes it contract. It's the opposite of heating with a torch. Most auto parts stores carry it, in an aerosol can. Might be worth a try....
-------------------- 78 Bronco Ranger XLT, Trailer Special with FreeWheeling package, 351M, NP435, 10.50 BFG's on Ford 7.5" alloys, Moroso/Imco hybrid exhaust, Survivor w/44K actual miles.
From: Southeast USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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posted
It ended up soaking in PBBlaster for over a week and it popped out no problem.
Before I pulled it I got the rotor pointed directly at cylinder number one. My son had his thumb on the plug hole while I turned the motor with a torque wrench. He felt the compression exactly when the rotor was pointing at the number one post position. Is that good enough, or do I need to turn the motor another 3/4 inch to get the timing mark for number one right on TDC at the crankshaft before I put in the new distributor?
Thanks for all your help guys!
Screamin'
-------------------- 'Screamin' Red Ass' B-17G lost on Berlin raid, 1944. Now the namesake for my 78 Bronco, which has already taken a fair share of flak, but keeps on flying. http://www.supermotors.org/users/BigDonkey
From: Ellensburg, WA., USA | Registered: Dec 2003
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posted
Glad you got it out; those distributors can be a bear sometimes.
Sounds like you've got the engine turned where it fires #1 (before TDC) right now. You can install the new distributor without touching a thing; just align the new one like the old one came out. The correct Ford alignment had the vacuum advance canister pointed directly toward the radiator.
Let us know how it runs!
-------------------- 78 Bronco Ranger XLT, Trailer Special with FreeWheeling package, 351M, NP435, 10.50 BFG's on Ford 7.5" alloys, Moroso/Imco hybrid exhaust, Survivor w/44K actual miles.
From: Southeast USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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posted
I'm about to install the DUI HEI in my Bronco. The instructions say that I have to have full alternator voltage and to make sure there's no ballast resistor or resistance wires. My Bronco is a 78 with a 400. Do you guys know if I've got any of that stuff in my ignition circuit?
Screamin'
-------------------- 'Screamin' Red Ass' B-17G lost on Berlin raid, 1944. Now the namesake for my 78 Bronco, which has already taken a fair share of flak, but keeps on flying. http://www.supermotors.org/users/BigDonkey
From: Ellensburg, WA., USA | Registered: Dec 2003
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quote:Originally posted by Screamin' Red Ass: I'm about to install the DUI HEI in my Bronco. The instructions say that I have to have full alternator voltage and to make sure there's no ballast resistor or resistance wires. My Bronco is a 78 with a 400. Do you guys know if I've got any of that stuff in my ignition circuit?
Screamin'
Screamin', yes you do have a resistor wire. If you look under the dash, there'll be a wire coming from the ignition switch, that's larger than the rest and it'll have "RESISTOR" printed on it. Mine is gray in color, although some may be orange.
However, this wire is only reducing the voltage to the ignition coil, so you'll want to retain it if you're using the stock coil. One of the wires going into the ignition module should have a switched 12v source, so it'd be best to use it. I don't know right off which wire that would be, but if you have a voltmeter you can check....
EDIT: OOPS! Just remembered the DUI is coil-in-cap, so you can bypass the resistor wire under the dash, and use the existing coil wire. I'd run a jumper wire across the resistor wire and leave it in place. That'd be the simpliest and cleanest solution.
-------------------- 78 Bronco Ranger XLT, Trailer Special with FreeWheeling package, 351M, NP435, 10.50 BFG's on Ford 7.5" alloys, Moroso/Imco hybrid exhaust, Survivor w/44K actual miles.
From: Southeast USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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posted
Got it in and running! Very smooth and clean. I found two heavy gauge orange wires leading out of my ignition switch, but no RESISTOR printing was on them. Since I'm pressed for time, I just wired a switched/fused 12v line directly from the battery to the dizzy. When I get more time I'll pull the ignition switch and get it figured out right.
Thanks for all your help guys!
Screamin'
-------------------- 'Screamin' Red Ass' B-17G lost on Berlin raid, 1944. Now the namesake for my 78 Bronco, which has already taken a fair share of flak, but keeps on flying. http://www.supermotors.org/users/BigDonkey
From: Ellensburg, WA., USA | Registered: Dec 2003
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posted
I'm in the same boat regarding the stuck distributor. Mine is an old vacuum advance Mallory Unilite, a very reliable unit. I'm replacing it with a modified cam sync sensor to drive the EDIS that is accompanying the SEFI conversion I'm doing. I guess I'll give PBBlaster a shot, if that works well.
-------------------- '79 Bronco Ranger XLT
From: Vancouver, BC | Registered: Jan 2003
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By the way, I ended up using a heavy duty relay to get voltage to the HEI. Just took the 'on' lead from the ignition switch to the relay. It's been working great.
Screamin'
-------------------- 'Screamin' Red Ass' B-17G lost on Berlin raid, 1944. Now the namesake for my 78 Bronco, which has already taken a fair share of flak, but keeps on flying. http://www.supermotors.org/users/BigDonkey
From: Ellensburg, WA., USA | Registered: Dec 2003
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